June 2004
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Month June 2004

Kimchi, Korean Pickles

My quest to impress the Korean brood continues… I did not include measurements in this kimchi recipe because the ingredients must be measured in equal parts according to how much vegetables you are using. If you don’t have access to daikon radish, you can use what Americans call turnips. Kimchi is always present on Korean tables, so serve them on the side with beef bulgogi or kalbi.

Ingredients:
Napa cabbage, washed thoroughly, chopped
Romaine lettuce, washed thoroughly, chopped
daikon radish, peeled, cubed
a knob of ginger, peeled, chopped
garlic cloves, peeled
scallions, thinly chopped
red pepper flakes
sesame oil
sesame seeds, toasted

1. Using a mortar and pestle, ground garlic and ginger into a paste. Using disposable gloves, wipe every cabbage and lettuce leaf with the garlic and ginger paste.
2. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and toss in the rest of the ingredients. Mix to combine everything well.
3. Stuff and fill a pickling jar with the kimchi mixture. Seal and keep in the fridge to ferment. Check after a week to adjust taste. Begin serving after a week.

Related post/s:
Korean Beef Bulgogi
Kalbi, Korean-style Barbeque
Where to buy daikon radish and shrimp paste

Spanakopita, Greek Spinach Triangles

Snack’s spinach triangles, or spanakopita, is one of my favorites things to eat in New York City. Filo, or phyllo, which means “leaf” in Greek, are tissue paper-thin like sheets of dough made from flour. They burn easily so keep the oven temperature at less than 300º when baking so that they don’t turn brown before the spinach mixture inside is cooked. When I made my own at home, I realized that it’s easier to use frozen spinach than the fresh ones and that it’s less work to make them in pie form, rather than in triangles. I’ve included the two recipes below.

Ingredients:
2 bunches of spinach, hard stalks removed, thoroughly washed
feta cheese, crumbled
filo pastry, gently unrolled and thawed in the fridge overnight
1 bunch scallion, chopped
1/4 cup of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup stick of butter, melted for a few seconds using the microwave
salt, pepper, olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 275º and brush a baking sheet with some of the melted butter.
2. Heat 1 tbsp of olive oil in a large skillet and sauté half of the spinach until it wilts. Remove and squeeze out excess liquid from the spinach using a paper towel and chop roughly. Repeat for the other half with another 1 tbsp of olive oil.
3. Sauté scallions until soft in the same skillet. Return the spinach with the parsley and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook for about 3 minutes in low heat then remove from heat. Stir in the feta and the egg to moisten the spinach mixture.
4. Remove the filo dough from the fridge to a flat surface and keep it covered with a moist towel to keep the dough from getting brittle. Cut the filo in 3-by-11-inch strips and recover with the damp towel.
5. Brush a strip of filo with melted butter and place a spoonful of the spinach mixture at the end of the strip. Fold the end over to form a triangle and continue to fold the strip in triangles, like folding a flag. Keep your triangles covered with another damp towel until ready to bake all of them.
6. Brush the triangles lightly with butter and bake for 20 to 25 minutes until golden brown and crisp.

If you want to make spinach pie instead, follow these instructions after #3 above:

4. Remove the filo dough from the fridge to a flat surface and keep it covered with a moist towel to keep the dough from getting brittle. Cut the filo to fit the shape of your baking dish and recover with your damp towel.
5. Brush glass baking dish with melted butter and lay out a couple of filo sheets on the bottom. Distribute spinach mixture. Add a few more sheets of filo on top, coating each with butter, until you have several layers and you are out of spinach.
6. Bake for 30 minutes until golden brown and crisp.

Related post/s:
Snack

Sparky’s All-American Food

135 North 5th Street off Bedford Avenue, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
718/302.5151
about $15 for two, with two drinks, without tip
♥ ♥ ♥

Updated, 2005: Sparky’s has opened a branch in Manhattan, 333 Lafayette Street off Bleecker, 212/334.3035

You can’t call yourself a New Yorker if you can’t make yourself cross the Brooklyn Bridge. Brooklyn is part of New York City, too. Sparky’s is a very good reason to visit the borough because it offers the best hot dogs, the best relish, the best chili, the best ketchup, the best mustard and the best buns. Don’t let the other organic hot dog stands that have sprouted all over the city fool you. Everything on Sparky’s menu is so good, it might just change the way you feel about Brooklyn.

Aquavit

13 West 54th Street
212/307.7311
about $300 for three, with a few drinks, without tip
♥ ♥ ♥ ♥

Updated, 2006: Aquavit has moved down the block at 65 East 55th Street between Park and Madison Avenues, 212/593.0287

I had one of the most surreal dining experiences at Aquavit with two of my friends. It was herring week in New York City and we were seated at the best table in the house, facing their cascading waterfalls, at the right time. The service was extraordinary; two waiters were looking after our needs and another one always made sure we were having a good time. Our reservation was at 8pm, which is prime dining time, but we were never rushed. We stayed until 11:30pm.

The chef and co-owner, Marcus Samuelsson, is the youngest chef ever to receive a three-star restaurant review from food critic Ruth Reichl. The James Beard Foundation has also awarded him “Rising Star Chef” in 1999 and “Best New Chef in New York City” in 2003. I was so impressed that he used kalamansi to make sorbet because it’s the Filipino version of limes. The trio of sweetbreads, pork sausages and lobster was an odd combination but it spelled decadence all over. Just like his eclectic food creations for this Scandinavian-owned restaurant, he also has a very interesting background. He’s Ethiopian and was adopted by a Swedish couple and has apprenticed in Sweden, Switzerland and Austria.

With a bottle of Gigondas, we each went for the three-course prix fixe. Between the three of us tasting each other’s food, it was like having nine courses, plus the three complementary tasting plates the chef sent up. Here’s a run-down of our meal:

1. Lobster roll with pistachio and lemon yogurt, salmon roe and homemade ginger ale

2. Herring Plate served with Aquavit and Carlsberg beer

3. Squab with potato purée and pearl onions

4. Konbu cured duck and braised leg with nut salad, kasha, bok choy, water chestnuts and coconut-red beet sauce

5. Smoked dry-aged New York Strip with Kobe tongue, lily bulb salad and Japanese potato in bone marrow emulsion

6. Trio: sweetbreads, pork sausage and lobster

7. Peanut butter parfait, sautéed banana and kalamansi sorbet

8. Arctic Circle: goat cheese parfait, blueberry sorbet and honey tuile

9. Warm chocolate with orange creamsicle and citrus salad

Artisanal

2 Park Avenue at 32nd Street
212/725.8585
about $125 for two, with two drinks, without tip
♥ ♥

Known for its cheese selections, I took advantage of Restaurant Week and was greatly disappointed with the Artisanal discounted menu. Who wants to be tied down with a choice of either hanger steak or salmon? Four of us ended up ordering from the regular menu anyway and spending $70 each. The crispy skate wing was really good, served with blood orange a la Grenobloise and cauliflower. I regretted not picking one of the seafood choices because my lamb cassoulet with white beans wasn’t the best version I’ve tasted. My friends’ cod special and wild mushroom risotto with butternut squash seemed like more interesting. At least my frisée salad provided me with some comfort. Though we all enjoyed the ritual involved in our prosciutto and cheese fondue, I will most likely stick with the cheese flight without any dipping involved next time. I like my French bistro food, but I can name a handful of other places in the city that would have a more robust selection.