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Archive for November, 2004

Esca

402 West 43rd Street off Ninth Avenue
212/564.7272
about $700 for four, with a lot of drinks, with tip
♥ ♥ ♥

Some friends I met while traveling in Ireland were in town. Remembering how much we all liked our seafood while we were traveling, I booked a table for four at Esca. At least two people are required to order the tasting menu per table, so my companions opted for that while I ordered the crudo appetizer, or tasting portions of raw seafood: uni served on its shell, an oyster, scallops with chervil, razor clams with chilis and hamachi with scallions. I’ve never had seafood worshipped this way. I salivated over the carpaccio yellowfin tuna and the linguine with mahogany clams and pancetta. The shrimps with caper and thyme vinaigrette, the squid-ink spaghetti with cuttlefish and the striped bass with caramelized apples were all delicious. The Maine halibut was a little bland if not eaten with the burdock root and black trumpet mushrooms, but the scallops were perfectly seared. I loved the warm fruit turnover and the raspberry ice cream for dessert. Unfortunately, I could not find room in my stomach to accommodate the creme brulée.

There was no Guiness beer but there were plenty of other wee-drinks: a bottle of Marchese di Gresy, another bottle of Moscato D’Asti and yet another bottle from Piemonte for dessert. Champagne, vodka and gin and tonics were also ordered several times before the main courses were served. Esca, which means bait in Italian, is a great place for groups–just don’t bring Irish friends who can outdrink you.

Related post/s:
It’s not surprising that Esca includes Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich
Seafood worship?

Gigot a la Moutarde, Leg of Lamb with Mustard

Gigot is French for a leg of lamb. This recipe was adapted from Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking. I’ve used more expensive lamb chops with this recipe as well. You just have to call it côte d’agneau to refer to the ribs. For more flavor, allow a couple of hours for the lamb to pick up the flavor before roasting. To give this a spin, I served it with some sautéed julienned vegetables wrapped in nori, or roasted seaweed.

Ingredients:
1 leg of lamb
1/2 cup Dijon mustard
3 cloves garlic, minced
a couple of rosemary sprigs
2 tbsps soy sauce
1/4 tsp powdered ginger
olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 350º. Blend the mustard, soy sauce, garlic, rosemary and ginger in a bowl. Beat in some of the oil to get mayonnaise consistency.
2. Brush the lamb with the mustard mixture and set it on a rack of a roasting pan. Roast until medium rare, a little more than an hour.

Related post/s:
A much simpler lamb steak will do

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