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Month May 2006

Cantonese-Style Flounder

Adapted from Mr. Tang’s, Chinatown, New York

1 flounder, cleaned, rinsed, patted dry
1 ginger, julienned
4 stalks of scallions, sliced
1/2 cup sake
2 tbsps soy sauce
1 tbsp peanut oil
red chili flakes
salt and pepper

1. Preheat oven at 375º. Scatter half of the ginger and scallions in a baking dish large enough to accommodate the whole flounder. Place the flounder and top with the rest of the ginger and scallions. Add all the liquid and season with the chili flakes plus the salt and pepper.
2. Bake fish for about 20 minutes, adding a little water after 10 if the dish seems to be dry.

Flour-Crusted Soft-Shell Crabs

Adapted from Noodletown, Chinatown, New York

6 soft-shell crabs, rinsed under cold running water, apron and gills removed, patted dry
1 cup flour, sifted
2 tbsps paprika
vegetable oil
salt and pepper

1. On a plate, combine all ingredients except crabs and oil. Coat each crab with flour mixture, shake off excess and transfer to a plate.
2. In a heated deep skillet, add oil. Deep-fry crabs, turning over halfway through frying (watch out for popping) until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain crabs on paper towels and serve with tartar sauce.

Naka Naka

458 West 17th Street off Tenth Avenue
212/929.8544
about $400 for six plus room fee, with a few drinks, with tip

When I get slow service in a restaurant, I’m usually ticked off, but for some reason I always excuse it when it comes to a Japanese restaurant. Do you do this? They’re so polite that even when they make a mistake, I find myself apologizing for them.

The menu at Naka Naka is limited; mostly familiar rolls like spicy tuna, salmon and tuna with avocado, unagi and tempura. The uni comes in both the light and the dark yellow colors and the hamachi is excellent, but without their daily specials–written on a whiteboard presented by the waitress–you’ll end up with less than five choices. Some of the appetizer dishes are tasty but unexciting: lotus root, deep fried fish, Japanese pickles and tofu. They also serve hot and cold soba and udon soups.

They didn’t replace our bowls throughout our entire meal. We awkwardly shared small dishes meant to be for one or two people because we didn’t have too many choices. It got so busy at the restaurant, we had to remind our waitress about our lotus root and fried fish orders. Getting refills for water and beer was difficult.

I’d return to Naka Naka if all I wanted was a simple Japanese experience around the neighborhood. In Meatpacking District standards, it’s a very small restaurant but still, an extra $10 per person was added to our bill for reserving the tatami room separated from the main dining bar. It’s a refuge from the zoo that is the party district, but that’s all there is to Naka Naka.

Bread Tribeca

301 Church Street corner of Walker
212/334.8282
about $60 for two, without drinks, without tip

Craving for pasta and too far of a walk from Peppe Rosso now that I work in Chinatown, we went to Bread Tribeca.


With lamb ragout


With haricot vert and zucchini in pesto

It hit the spot but I liked their interior better than their food–mediocre at best.

Hudson Cafeteria

2nd floor of the Hudson Hotel, 356 West 58th Street off Ninth Avenue
212/554.6500
about $150 for two, with two drinks, with tip

We walked in at 4pm, way past brunch time for early risers like me, but we still enjoyed a civilized lunch with the afternoon sun seeping in at the Hudson Cafeteria. We ordered the foie gras in honor of our Chicago friends who won’t be able to enjoy it anymore. It came with country ham and pickled watermelon and black eyed peas. The Peking duck pizza hit the spot and was absolutely delicious. The scallions in the hoisin sauce was a nice kick with the fresh mozarella and tomatoes.


Mmm, mmm sautéed foie gras


Peking duck pizza

We could have stopped there but two glasses each of the Pinot Gris and the Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand made us order the Hudson burger with Niman Ranch bacon served with fries and cheese.

The space is gorgeous and perhaps the most good looking “cafeteria” you will lay your eyes on. The dark wood, high ceilings and tall windows make the space inviting that you forget you’re inside a hotel in the first place.