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231 Mott Street off Prince
212/966.6310
about $80 for two, with two drinks, without tip

In Tent is such a hokey name for a restaurant but the main dining room indeed has a removable tent made of rust-colored silk fabric because zoning regulations do not allow a permanent roof to cover a garden (vacated by Bot Restaurant).

A beautiful setup in the dining room with Moroccan lamps under a tent

Chef Francois Payard brings his experience as pastry chef from La Tour d’Argent and Le Bernadin and partners with several other chefs to bring In Tent’s Moroccan-inspired menu. The lamb burger with zucchini fries was excellent. The meat was so juicy and the bread crispy that I regret sharing it with my dining partner.

Lamb burger with zucchini fries

The grilled octopus with cannellini bean salad was tender; just how I like my tentacles. I liked the idea of the bacalao carpaccio but without the black olive emulsion, it would have been bland. In Portugal, fresh codfish is rarely eaten. Dried salted codfish, or what we know as the more expensive clipfish, is the way to go for South Americans.

Octopus with white beans

Black olive emulsion on bacalao

Our young server was attentive and even though In Tent was busy at 9pm on a Wednesday night, we were promptly accommodated without reservations after a drink at the bar. I’ll come back for more of that lamb.

9 St. Marks Place between 2nd and 3rd Avenues
212/228.5086
about $50 for two, with two drinks, with tip

Yakitori Taisho is one of those Japanese places on St. Marks that you end up going to after drinking all night because they’re open until after midnight. Oh! Taisho is that new space they’ve needed because the original is always packed.

Too much bacon can kill you

Yakitori is traditionally grilled chicken but nowadays, the term is used to refer to anything barbequed. The secret is the sauce that comes with every skewer made up of rice wine vinegar, sweet sake, soy sauce and sugar. My favorite is getting one of each of the yakitoris with bacon for about $2 each: with quail egg, asparagus, okra and scallops. I also love the beef stomach and the tongue.

Two other good dishes I find hard to skip are the kimchi yakiudon and the pork spareribs. The pork falls off the bone and is perfectly tender. The kimchi yakiudon is spicy enough to make you pause in between bites. I usually order it when I’m not in the mood for a bowl of rice.

Good barbeque

Kimchi Yakiudon

Salary men in Japan are known to eat yakitori after a long day at work with their favorite sake. Here in New York City though, I stick with my Asahi Dry.