May 2008
Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
« Apr   Jun »
 1234
567891011
12131415161718
19202122232425
262728293031  

Month May 2008

Rellenong Bangus, Stuffed Milkfish

Relleno in Spanish food generally means stuffing, usually a meat mixture that’s been breaded and then fried. It’s applied in Filipino food using the same concept but in this recipe, the meat of my country’s national fish, milkfish or bangus, is removed from the cavity, tossed and stir-fried with other ingredients, stuffed back in the fish and then sealed before roasting to a golden brown color.

I grew up eating this stuffed fish at family birthday parties. The kids always enjoyed the fried red hot dogs and marshmallows in skewers while the adults ate the “real” food like rellenong bangus. Milkfish is extremely bony and one needs a lot of patience to remove the very fine threads of bones but I’ve always thought the reward was much greater than the work. I gently pounded the fish using the smooth end of a tenderizer mallet to loosen the meat from its skin and then I sliced off the meat from its skin using a very sharp boning knife. A little maneuvering near the tail helped break off the larger bone in the middle. I knew that knife had its purpose!

The entire process took 45 minutes–not bad for an amateur. I left the sewing of the fish shut to my mother who is lighter handed with a giant needle and butcher’s twine than I am. The result, a cleanly sutured stuffed milkfish.

Ingredients:
1 milkfish, thawed if previously frozen, scaled, cleaned, sliced open along the stomach
3 tbsps ground pork
1 small carrot, finely chopped
a handful of raisins
1/4 cup bread crumbs
1 stalk scallion, finely chopped
3 stalks of parsley, finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, minced
oil, salt, pepper

1. Using the smooth end of a meat tenderizer mallet, gently pound the milkfish on a chopping block. Be careful not to pierce the skin. With a sharp boning knife, begin to separate the meat from the fish’s skin. Remove fish bones as you see them.
2. In a large skillet, heat some oil. Sauté garlic and scallions until scallions are soft. Add ground pork and fry. Add carrots and parsley and continue to toss until the ground pork is brown.
3. Add the fish meat with the raisins and toss to continue cooking. Mix in the bread crumbs. Season with salt and pepper. Remove to a bowl and let cool to room temperature.
4. Stuff the milkfish by spreading the meat and fish mixture evenly inside the fish cavity. Hold the seams together and sew close using butcher’s twine and needle. Brush the outside of the fish with some oil and put on a roasting pan.
5. Roast one side of the fish for about 10 minutes. Carefully turn the fish and roast the other side for another 7. Remove from the oven and let the fish slightly cool before slicing to reveal the stuffing inside.

Related post/s:
Stuffing fish fillet is easier
Stuffed portobello mushrooms is a very good alternative

L’Ecole at the French Culinary Institute

462 Broadway corner of Grand Street
212/219.3300
about $120 for two, with four drinks, with tip

L’Ecole’s five-course dinner is probably the city’s lowest-priced prix fixe at $40, but at that unbelievable price, how does the food taste? Well, like $8 apiece. The restaurant prides itself in using sustainable seafood but I missed any information about their meat and vegetable sources. I assume they buy everything from the farmers’ market, but I wonder how they afford to charge less than $10 a plate if that was the case.

An appetizer of asparagus with crumbled chorizo sounded great but came out tasteless. I understood that the pan tomate with Manchego cheese was included to round up a Spanish-inspired dish, but they were disconnected here and the triangle of a sandwich needed to spend a little more time on the grill press.

The scallops were presented well in a row of shells topped with roe. They would have made great amuse bouches as they were actually lighter than the ones we received made of pancake batter.

I looked forward to my trout served in a curried mussel broth on a bed of baby bok choy, but the fish was under-seasoned and no amount of curry rescued it from blandness. The fluke was immemorable with braised cabbage and mushrooms. My Cornish hen needed some sauce to make the white meat taste like something. I thought the rhubarb that came with the duck would have been a perfect accompaniment because I’ve always cooked and eaten Cornish hens with tarty flavors like pomegranate. The duck triumphed as the best dish of the night. The duck breast was perfectly seared while the leg was braised with rhubarb presented, oddly, like Lincoln Logs. However, the bottom half of a side of rice was dipped in the leftover duck sauce and was an unnecessary addition.

We were pretty much satiated with mediocrity by the time we had to order our desserts, so we opted to share the cake with blueberry compote because it came with olive oil ice cream. We just didn’t want to waste any more food.

At L’Ecole, the ingredients used were not a problem. I’m sure there are talented students at the International Culinary Center, but they need to tighten their execution and add some finesse in their cooking to translate what they want to convey on their diners’ plates. I half-expected a professor in the kitchen tasting everything before going out, but it seemed like the students were pretty much on their own. Our waiter was really accommodating, but his every move was ruined by the too-lazy busboy who haphazardly stacked up all our utensils on our plates before briskly taking them way after each course–he just couldn’t wait to get out of there. We couldn’t either.

Related post/s:
SoHo needs better restaurants. Spend your $40 at Bar Bossa instead. At least, they’re consistent.
Savoy for local ingredients

Chicken Canzanese

I was attracted to this 1969 recipe Amanda Hesser featured in The New York Times a couple of weeks ago. There is no browning involved and I immediately thought that chicken can’t be pretty without a golden brown crust. But then I remembered Hainanese chicken, a dish from the Hainan Island of China but perfected by those who immigrated to Singapore.

This style is Canzanese–Canzano is in the Abruzzo region in Italy–but it’s poached with wine instead of its juice alone. The pancetta gives the chicken some soul (Anthony Bourdain once said, All roads lead to pork), while the fresh herbs give it a fragrant smell as soon as you take the lid off and let out some steam.

Ingredients:
3 chicken pieces
1 thick round of pancetta, cut into strips
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 sprigs rosemary
2 sage leaves
2 bay leaves
3 cloves
1 clove garlic, sliced lengthwise
2 peppercorns, crushed
1 dried red chili, crushed
salt

1. Place the chicken pieces in a mixing bowl; cover with cold water and add 1 tsp of salt. Let stand 1 hour. Drain and pat dry.
2. Arrange the chicken pieces in one layer in a frying pan fitted with a lid and add the rest of the ingredients over the chicken. Add 1/4 cup water. Cover and simmer until the chicken is nearly done, about 40 minutes. Uncover and cook briefly over high heat until the sauce is reduced slightly.

Related post/s:
Ginger-mint chicken is perfect for warmer months
Country-style chicken

Savory Kale Pudding

Continuing my current love affair with kale, I followed another recipe Stacie of chowbaby.com recommended. I’m a bigger fan of savory rather than sweet and this pudding was just right up my alley. The bakery uptown didn’t have brioche in stock when I stopped by, so I picked up a loaf of challah instead. Before tearing them into smaller pieces, I just tried to remove as many of the poppy seeds as I could. I also topped it with grated Gruyere cheese when I realized I still had some leftover in the fridge.

The pudding cooked while I leisurely read The Sunday Times. It was such a low-maintenance pudding with a large yield. And even with the milk and cream, it tasted pretty healthy.

Ingredients:
1 bunch kale, leaves torn from stalks, washed thoroughly
half a loaf of challah bread, torn into smaller pieces
2 medium leeks, thoroughly washed, chopped
a sliver of Gruyere cheese, grated
3 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
4 eggs
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 sprigs of thyme
salt, pepper, oil

1. Preheat oven to 450º. Toss kale leaves with a little olive oil. Spread out on baking sheets and roast for about 10 minutes. The kale will wilt and become slightly crispy. Transfer the kale to a bowl and set aside. Lower the oven temp to 400º.
2. In the meantime, sauté the garlic and leeks in butter until leeks are soft but not browned. Remove from heat and set aside.
3. In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs, milk and cream together with the thyme and some salt and pepper. Fold in the kale and the leek mixture.
4. Pour the pudding mixture into a rectangular baking dish. Place the baking dish into a larger roasting pan filled halfway with water. Put the pans carefully into the oven. Cover the baking dish loosely with foil. Bake for 20 minutes.
5. Carefully take the pans out of the oven. Continue baking the pudding for another 20 minutes without the pan filled with water. Check to see if the pudding is cooked by inserting a toothpick in the middle. If the toothpick comes out clean, your pudding is done. Remove from oven, let cool slightly and serve.

Related post/s:
A sweeter kind of pudding with caramel sauce
ChikaLicious Puddin’
Part of my Mother Hen project: omakase bento #7

Wildwood Barbeque

225 Park Avenue South at 18th Street
212/533.2500
about $40 each for four, with a pitcher of beer, with tip
♥ ♥

Sorry, we’re out of the pork spare ribs.

A long pause from our table and then, what do you mean you’re out of the pork spare ribs? Well, you can try the Memphis-style baby back ribs instead. What time is it? Almost 7:30pm. And you’re out of the ribs already? Seriously?

I wanted to try Wildwood Barbeque because “Big Lou” Elrose of Hill Country was going to be handling the meat. You can say I was very disappointed when the dry-dusted pork spare ribs with Lou’s sugar and spice rub were already out by 7:30pm. Between the four of us, we ended up sharing everything else in the pit barbeque menu. The Texas-smoked brisket, cooked “low and slow”, was pretty good but it was even better with the house sauce. The Carolina pulled pork made my night because of the vinegar sauce that came with it. Both weren’t as moist as I would have liked but delicious enough to enjoy with a side of smoked sausages and a pitcher of local beer. I tried not to eat too much of the corn bread to make room for the meat but I couldn’t help but pick from the cast iron skillet it came in. The mac and cheese was indeed cheesy and it was definitely favored over the baked beans.

The portions looked small though I felt like I had enough by the time the three smores came for dessert. Maybe it was good that I didn’t have a tray of meat in front of me ala Fette Sau or Hill Country because I know I would have stuffed myself silly if that was the case. But not even a month old and they already can’t keep up with the demand? I would have liked the option of saying no instead of being said no to.

Related post/s:
They ran out of beef ribs at Hill Country during my first visit
Dinosaur Bar-B-Que is still up on my list