The Glencolumbkille Pilgrimage and the Slieve League (2004 Archives)

Filed under Ireland

I’ve always been turned off by tour guides because from what I’ve experienced, they talk like broken records and they really just do it because it’s their job. Enter Sean Mullan of Walking and Talking in Ireland. He has been walking the walk and talking the talk for about five years, and it showed. Tours turn into experiences when you’re accompanied by someone who actually has a passion for the place you’re visiting. There are new lessons learned when your guide can answer every question you have without consulting any prepared speeches. Sean Mullan opened my eyes to this country I knew nothing about. An enlightening two-day tour, Walking and Talking in Ireland made me wish all tour companies operated Sean Mullan’s way.

We hiked Slieve League on the West Coast of Donegal, the highest sea cliffs in Europe known not only for its elevation but also its color: a range of brown to rust to orange and beautiful shades of green. Right from the beginning of our hike, we had an inspiring view of the cliffs, displaying miles of quartzites and slates that make up the mountain. We walked by unusual stacks of rocks known as the Giant’s Desk and Chair while the waves violently crashed against the cliffs thousands of feet below us.

From where we stood, we saw other groups continuing the hike along One Man’s Path to the summit. The Atlantic Ocean stretched miles beyond what our eyes could see. At times, I had to be careful when taking photographs because of the strong winds, but the hike was as exhilirating as anyone can imagine. Sean Mullan let us take in the view—a view I thought only the top of Waimea Canyon in Hawaii could provide. Thankfully, I was proven wrong.

We also traced the pilgrimage of one of Ireland’s three patron saints, Colm Cille, or St. Columba, believed to have driven away the demons of Donegal from the valley to the sea around 500 A.D. Gleann Cholm Cille, or Glencolumbkille, translates to the “valley of Colm Cille”, and every 9th of June, devotees stop at fifteen stations along the north side of the valley to touch the ancient inscribed stones and marked iron plaques for penance. We stopped by an old church and paid our respects at the small cemetery outside.

Among our other stops were the Folk Village Museum and the Napoleonic Tower. The Folk Village Museum exhibits rural Donegal lifestyle and was started by a local priest named Father James MacDyer in the 1950s. He provided jobs to the locals by encouraging them to set up craft cooperatives. It sells local wares and souvenirs and also houses the Tea House, where we took a break after walking along the beach. The Napoleonic Tower was built by the British to protect their country from an invasion by France through Ireland. The hike up to the tower took only under two hours, but we stayed a few extra minutes to rest and watch the sun go down. In true Irish fashion, we witnessed a dark cloud pour rain over the valley below us while we were simultaneously enjoying the soft glow of the afternoon sun on top.

Related post/s:
Glencolumbille and Slieve League photos on Flickr
I highly recommend walking and talking with Sean Mullan

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Eggplant with Minced Pork Sauté

Filed under Vegetables + Salads

I was craving Chinese take-out for some reason–the bad, oily and saucy kind–and so my mouth watered when I read this recipe in the Sunday Times. I bought a large eggplant on my way home because our neighborhood supermarket doesn’t carry the small and thinner Asian kind. The large ones have darker and tougher purple skin, so I took more time simmering them here. As usual, I followed Harold McGee and salted the eggplant pieces after I sliced them. This draws out the moisture and collapses their spongy texture, so they don’t absorb all the oil when sautéing.

I realized I ran out of soy sauce when I was ready to make the sauce. I ended up using the kecap sambal in our pantry instead. It’s made of soy beans but also includes relish. I also used the last dollop of kochujang sauce I had in the fridge. Looks like I need to make a trip to Chinatown soon and restock my Asian pantry.

Ingredients:
1 large eggplant, cut into smaller chunks
some ground pork
1 tbsp kecap sambal
1 1/2 tsps sugar
1 tbsp cornstarch
1 tbsp kochujang sauce
2 stalks of scallions, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
peanut oil
salt

1. Place the eggplant chunks in a large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and toss. Set aside.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together the kecap sambal, sugar, kochujang sauce and cornstarch until the cornstarch dissolves. Set aside.
3. In a large wok, heat some of the peanut oil over high heat. Sauté garlic until golden brown. Add scallions and cook until soft. Add the pork and cook, stirring, until no longer pink, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a plate.
4. Dab eggplant dry with paper towels. In the wok, heat some more oil over medium high until it just starts to smoke. Add the eggplant, and sauté until lightly browned and tender, about 10 minutes. Add the sauce mixture. Cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Once the sauce thickens, add the pork back and 3/4 cup water. Bring to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer until the sauce thickens and the eggplant is tender, about 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to taste with salt.

Related post/s:
Italian cianbotta also uses eggplants
You can get the kecap sambal and kochujang sauce from Asia Food Market in Chinatown

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