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Where to eat in Washington, D.C.: Central Michel Richard

I was too young to remember my first visit to Washington, D.C. with my parents. The Dr. has never been. So when we heard that Arcade Fire was playing in D.C. before New York, we bought tickets and decided to make a weekend out of it. It was just icing on the cake when I found out that Miriam was moving to the District from San Francisco (she’s in-love; bless hear heart).

Michel Richard was inducted in the James Beard Foundation even before bloggers out there knew how important James Beard was to the culinary industry. His flagship Washington, D.C. restaurant, Citronelle, has been numerously named as one of the best restaurants in the country. When he decided to open an affordable bistro on Pennsylvania Avenue called Central, loyal fans and curious eaters waited eagerly.

I’ve never been to Citronelle so I have no way to compare head chef Cedric Maupiller’s signature dishes with Michel Richard’s. The French onion soup was simple; breaking into the cheese was like opening a surprise gift. The frisée salad was served with a poached egg. I appreciated the fact that after we requested it be split in two, we each got our own egg. The filet mignon tartare tasted all of mustard and pickles. I couldn’t savor the beef flavor I always look for in tartare. The crispy fries that came with it, though, were addicting. My soft-shell crabs were meaty and I could have eaten them on their own without the coleslaw. The fried chicken was buttery but surprisingly light. Even though we were never told where the dozen oysters specifically came from, we enjoyed them with our rosé sparkling wine. The small Brussels sprouts reminded me of mashed potatoes in my mouth, mushy and wet, but nothing cooked with bacon ever disappoints me. After a second bottle of wine, we ended our night with the famous Kit Kat bar which tasted like, well, a giant Kit Kat chocolate bar. It was so rich that the ice cream with it was almost unnecessary. It was definitely for someone with a sweet tooth and a lot of room after a full dinner. The mostly American fare came together at the end, but the service provided wasn’t up to par.

Our waiter was a little bit surly. Perhaps because we asked to move to another table as soon as we sat down. Perhaps because we couldn’t make a decision on what to order. When we finally did, we chose mostly appetizers. There was a lag in service in between our oysters and our orders. When our food came, the empty oyster shells were still on our table. He made up for the surlyness by requesting the kitchen to appropriately split a couple of our dishes in two as we requested, but he made me wonder about what we or anyone else did to ruin his night. And though most people may not care, I was a bit surprised that our used plates were stacked on top of each other when the staff was cleaning the table. Surely, they do not do the same thing at Citronelle. Do regular citizens like us have to receive a lesser quality of service just because we’re dining at the bistro and paying $100 less?

Central Michel Richard is at 1001 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, 202/626.0015
Where to stay in Washington, D.C.: The Carlyle Hotel

Related post/s:
Washington, D.C. photos on Flickr

Cod and Shrimp Stew

Gourmet Magazine published this Moqueca Capixaba Brazilian fish stew in their food and travel issue. I remember reading the recipe on my way home and my mouth started watering. I knew the cilantro and lime were going to be key here so I ended up putting double the amount for both. This became one of my favorite dishes this spring.

Ingredients:
2 pieces of cod fillets, pat dry with paper towel
1/4 pound of shrimps, peeled and deveined
juice from 2 limes
1 bunch of cilantro, roughly chopped
3 plum tomatoes, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 large red onion, chopped
2 yellow plantains, peeled, halved and cut into 8 pieces
5 cloves of garlic, minced
red pepper flakes
salt, olive oil

1. In a shallow bowl, stir together lime juice and red pepper flakes, garlic and salt. Pour over cod fillets and shrimps. Cover and marinate while you prepare the vegetables.
2. Put tomatoes in a large Dutch oven. Top with the onions and bell pepper. Place plantains on top and season with some salt. Arrange the fish and the shrimps on top of the vegetables. Sprinkle cilantro over the fish and pour over lime-garlic marinade with some oil.
3. Bring to a simmer and then cover the pot. Adjust heat to gently simmer for about 20 minutes, until vegetables are soft and fish and shrimps are cooked through.

Related post/s:
Fish stew, Korean version