Talay Restaurant

701 West 135th Street and Twelfth Avenue
212/491.8303
$104 for two, with 3 drinks, without tip
♥ ♥

If anyone in the restaurant industry deserves a break, it’s King Phojanakong, owner and chef of Kuma Inn in the lower east side. I don’t know if it’s the Filipino-Thai upbringing that keeps him humble but I’m sure he’s worked hard enough to keep Kuma Inn as unpretentious as possible. I believe that it’s his time to shine with Talay, his new Asian-Latin restaurant in West Harlem with co-chef Phet Schwader.

They couldn’t have picked a better neighborhood, too. Harlem is going through some major changes and Talay joins the new Body Club next door and old favorites Dinosaur Bar-B-Que and Fairway Supermarket. Ignore the irritating name the real estate agents are trying to christen the area–ViVa for Viaduct Valley–and check out this micro-neighborhood as it transforms warehouses to nightclubs.

We visited during a more sane Sunday night and sat at the bar in front of the kitchen to watch all the action. The green papaya beef salad was delicious and only made me salivate for more food. We loved the pork sausage spring rolls as well. We also ordered the octopus salad, a dish that I think caters to the few uptowners who want to be more adventurous. Talay does it pretty well. The summer roll had more vermicelli noodles than vegetables, but they cleansed the palate just in time for our blackened ahi tuna dish. With all the flavorful tastes in our mouths, the ahi tuna came out bland in comparison–we should have skipped it or at least ordered it first. There are some Latin-influenced dishes so as not to alienate the targeted crowd–arroz Valencia, ropa vieja, bistek churrasco–but the Asian dishes stick out and are among the tastiest.

After dinner, I asked the maitre ‘d to walk me upstairs to check out the party space. Talay is making up for what Kuma Inn lacked in space. There is bottle service and curtains can be drawn to keep a room more private–just the way the uptown and New Jersey crowd coming from across the bridge like it. While I don’t think the downtown crowd will make the trek past 42nd Street, Talay is a good reason for the uptown crowd to stay uptown.

Related post/s:
I interviewed King back in the day for generationrice
Dinosaur Bar-B-Que is a couple of blocks away from Talay, but not for long
If you go east, El Barrio has some delicious tacos

Ham Hock Xiao Long Bao with Butternut Burst

I wanted to accomplish two things with this version of the Shanghainese xiao long bao, or soup dumplings: make my own dumpling wrap from scratch and put a spin to it by using butternut squash soup for October’s Supper with Strangers instead of the traditional stock made from pork skin and chicken broth. Although I was proud at making my first edibles ones without trying too hard, the soup didn’t burst as much as I would have liked. But now that I know that I’m capable of making them, I’ll take some other time to make the traditional version and make my Chinese friends proud.

Allow yourself some extra time to make the butternut squash soup and the ham hock filling first and save the dumpling-making a couple of hours before serving. (I made a whole batch of soup and only used 2 cups for the xiao long bao.) For my first try, I kneaded the dough by hand, but for our Supper, I found a pasta maker extremely helpful in making the dough as thin and pliable as I needed it to be. A small 2-layer bamboo steamer in Chinatown is $10 and it can fit about ten xiao long baos.

Ingredients:
For the roasted butternut squash soup:
1 butternut squash, peeled, seeds removed, sliced in half
1 carrot, chopped
2 ribs of celery, chopped
1 yellow onion, chopped
fresh thyme
1 tbsp powdered gelatin
oil, salt, pepper

1. Make the butternut squash soup. Drizzle some oil on squash and season with thyme, salt and pepper. Roast squash in oven until tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. When cool enough to handle, scoop out the squash meat to a bowl.
2. Combine carrot, celery and onion in a large stockpot with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil. Simmer until carrot is soft. Add the squash meat. Season with thyme, salt and pepper. Cook and stir occasionally while mashing some of the vegetables with the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from heat and let cool.
3. Start with a small batch of the squash mixture and purée in food processor. Return each batch to another stockpot and simmer again. Add more water to make a soup consistency. Season to taste.
4. Transfer 2 cups of the soup to a small saucepan for the xiao long bao. Add powdered gelatin and let sit for 2 minutes. Stir bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and let cool. Pour into a small ice cube tray and refrigerate until ready to make the xiao long baos. Serve the rest as a soup starter another day.

For the ham hock:
3 smoked ham hocks, soaked in water overnight, then drained when ready to use
1 carrot, chopped
2 ribs of celery, chopped
1 red onion, chopped
3 bay leaves
1 small knob of ginger, peeled, thinly sliced
1 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil

1. Make the ham hock filling. Combine ham hocks, carrot, celery, onion and bay leaves in a large stockpot with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil. Remove the impurities that rise to the top using a slotted spoon. Simmer for 2 to 3 hours or until the ham hocks are tender. When cooked, set the ham hocks aside and let cool. Discard the rest.
2. When cool enough to handle, remove the ham hock meat from the bones and roughly chop. In a small bowl, combine meat with ginger, soy sauce and sesame oil. Refrigerate until ready to make the xiao long baos.

For the xiao long bao wrappers:
2 cups of flour, and more for your work surface
1/3 cup of hot water
2/3 cup of room temperature water
5 leaves of napa cabbage

1. Make the xiao long baos wrappers. Sift the flour into a large mixing bowl. Add the hot water and incorporate with your hands. Add the other 2/3 cup of water and mix to make dough. On a floured surface, use your hands to knead the dough for 10 minutes or until it becomes soft, smooth and bounces back slowly when you poke with your finger. Cover with plastic wrap and let it sit for 30 minutes.
2. Divide dough into 3 portions. Using one portion at a time while rest of the dough is covered in plastic wrap, roll into a snake. Chop the snaked dough in 1-inch pieces. Feed each inch into a pasta maker and roll out, using thickest setting first and moving on to the 2nd and then the 3rd, until the dough is thin but pliable enough. I made one wrapper and assembled a xiao long bao one at a time to keep the dough from drying up.
3. Assemble the xiao long baos. Fill each wrapper with 1 tbsp of ham hock filling and a cube of butternut squash soup gelatin. Pinch and pleat the edges of the wrapper and twist to seal. Set assembled ones in a large bowl covered with a wet paper towel to keep moist until ready to steam.
4. Boil a large pot of water. Line each layer of the bamboo steamer with napa cabbage leaves. Place a few xiao long baos on each layer, cover and put on top of the pot of boiling water to steam for 10 to 15 minutes. They are cooked when translucent and moist.

Related post/s:
October Supper with Strangers photos on Flickr
The process of making xiao long bao photos on Flickr

Per Se

4th floor of the Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle at 60th Street
212/823.9335
$900 for two, with drinks, with extra tip apart from the included service fee
♥ ♥ ♥ ♥

As soon as our waiter brought out a footstool for my purse so that I didn’t have to put it down on the floor, I knew we were in for an experience. Small gestures like that from the staff make Per Se, and any of Thomas Keller’s restaurants, stand out. Everyone around us was older or part of a group that discussed important business, but we were treated like we belonged there. We never felt awkward–except when we tried to push those gorgeous blue doors open–nor rushed. Our waiters and servers weren’t snotty and our sommelier was helpful in suggesting wines to match our dishes without necessarily pushing for the bottles that were out of our budget.

I was treating the Dr. for his birthday and when I made the reservation exactly two months ago, they had asked me if there was an occasion. That night, they included a “Happy Birthday [Dr.]” right below the date on our menus. It was a simple gesture, but it made the celebrant very appreciative. When desserts were brought out, a lit candle was placed on his and they joked about singing a capella. (For a few seconds, I really thought they would.) Upon our leaving, another staff member was waiting for us at the door with our coats, our mignardises packed in a silver box and a folder with copies of our menu. After almost five hours of being treated like royalty, we stepped out of Per Se’s luxurious setting and back into the concrete jungle that is New York City. I’m grateful for those few hours.

My Tasting of Vegetables:

“Mousse de Topinambours” – Toasted Hazelnuts, Lingonberries and Garden Tarragon

“Dégustation de Petits Oignons” – Arugula and Smoked Onion Purée

Tempura of White Maitake Mushroom – Persian Cucumbers, Confit of Meyer Lemons and Mitsuba with Umeboshi Dressing

Slow Poached Squire Hill Farm’s Ameraucana Hen Egg – Brioche Croûton, “Lentilles du Puy”, Root Vegetable “Matignon” and Watercress Laves with “Beurre Rouge”

Belgian Endive “En Fuille de Pomme de Terre” – Shaved Burgundy Truffles, Red Endive and Red Ribbon Sorrel with Black Winter Truffle Coulis

“Salvatore Brooklyn Ricotta” Agnolotti – Flowering Quince, Caramelized Fall Squash and Pumpkin Seed Oil with Brown Butter Emulsion

“Roquefort Le Vieux Berger” – Tellicherry Pepper “Sablé”, Marinated Purple Top Turnips, Candied Walnuts and Garden Chervil with Medjool Date Vinaigrette

Pink Champagne Granité – Passion Fruit Pudding

Black Currant Cobbler – Butter “Croustillant”, Black Currant Compote and Diane St. Clair’s Buttermilk Sherbet

The Dr.’s Tasting Menu:

“Oysters and Pearls” – “Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar

“Torchon” of Élevages Périgord Moulard Duck Foie Gras – Oatmeal Crumble, Oregon Huckleberries, Crosnes, Red Ribbon Sorrel and Blis Maple Gelée with Toasted Brioche

Crispy Skin Fillet of Red Snapper – “Ratatouille”, Globe Artichokes and Parsley Chips with Niçoise Vinaigrette

Pan Roasted Maine Sea Scallop – Garnet Yam Purée, Glazed Chestnuts and Arugula Leaves with Pomegranate Syrup

“Boudin Blanc Grillé” – Smoked Squire Hill Farm’s Ameraucana Hen Egg Emulsion, Haricots Verts and Frisée with Veal Sauce

Elysian Fields Farm’s “Selle D’agneau Rôtie Entière” – Matsutake Mushrooms, Fennel Bulb and Greenmarket Carrots with Lamb Jus

Di Bruno Brothers’ “Burrata” – “Croûton de Pain de Campagne”, Flageolet Beans and Petit Basil with Pickled Onions

“Banoffee” – Devil’s Food Cake, Chocolate “Marquise” and Malt Mousse with Banana-Crème Fraîche Sherbet

“Pomme-Beurre Noisette” – “Confiture” of Granny Smith Apple, “Financier” and Tahitian “Bavarois” with “Glace au Beurre Noisette”

Related post/s:
Thomas Keller’s Per Se photos on Flickr
The only experience that comes close to Per Se? The French Laundry
And oh, I have to say Alinea. Chef Grant Achatz is, of course, a Thomas Keller protégé

Winter Squash and Apple with Orzo

A drive up to Massachusetts to visit old friends and see the foliage was canceled at the last minute after the Dr. was called in to work. He made up for it by changing the car reservations and driving us closer from the city and letting me drag him to Stuart’s Farm’s apple orchard and pumpkin patch. The apples were still out, but there was no picking that needed to be done to the pumpkins–you can just “pick” one from the batch the farmers had already selected.

The drive was beautiful though. We both gasped when we saw the colors of the leaves while driving over Croton Point Park. The water was as still along the reservoir. It was definitely fall and the night called for us to test the squashes we brought home with us. Use wild rice instead of orzo if you want this dish to be heftier.

Ingredients:
a small acorn squash, halved, seeded and cut into small chunks
1 apple, cored, halved, sliced
1 small sweet potato, peeled, cut into small chunks
a handful of shallots, peeled
1 cup of orzo
a handful of cilantro, finely chopped
a dollop of honey
lime juice
oil, salt, pepper

1. Toss the squash, potato and shallots in a large bowl with a splash of oil, salt and pepper. Turn out onto a large baking pan. Roast for about 30 minutes. Then remove from oven and add the apples. Using tongs, slip the squash and potatoes to make sure the other sides are browning, too. Roast for another 10. The squash and potatoes should be tender and the onions caramelized.
2. In the meantime, cook the orzo. Boil some water and cook the orzo for about 10 minutes. Drain and fluff with a fork to avoid sticking. Set aside until ready to assemble the dish.
3. In the meantime, make the dressing. In a small bowl, combine some olive oil, cilantro, honey and some lime juice. You might need to drop in a splash of warm water or two to dilute the honey. Season with salt and pepper.
4. To assemble everything, use a large bowl and toss roasted vegetables together with the orzo and the cilantro-lime dressing. I use my hands to make sure that the vegetables are evenly distributed.

Related post/s:
Part of my Mother Hen project: omakase bento #22
For warmer months, orzo is great with citrus

Carrot-Ginger Soup

Most vegetable soups are thin and clean. I wanted to add some texture to this so I added rice to the carrot-ginger batch before puréeing it in the blender. The final result felt like oatmeal in my mouth and a flavorful soup that was heartier than usual.

Ingredients:
2 large carrots, peeled, chopped in large chunks
1 small- to medium-sized ginger, peeled, chopped
1/4 cup of rice
3 cloves of garlic, minced
1 red onion, roughly chopped
6 sprigs of thyme
a handful of parsley, roughly chopped
3 bay leaves
oil, salt, pepper

1. In a stockpot, heat some olive oil over medium heat. Sauté garlic until slightly brown. Add onions and cook until soft, but do not brown. Add ginger, parsley, thyme and bay leaves and cook until fragrant, about 2-3 minutes.
2. Add carrots, rice and 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until carrots are exceedingly tender, about 30 minutes. Stir occasionally to help cook the rice. Turn off heat and set aside to cool.
3. When cool, remove bay and discard bay leaves. Purée soup in blender in batches. Season with salt and pepper.

Related post/s:
The ginger-garlic paste I made and stored is proving to be very useful
Asparagus soup recipe