Author: cia

Ivo & Lulu

558 Broome Street between Sixth Avenue and Varick Street
212/226.4399
about $100 for three, BYOB, without tip

I was so happy to find another restaurant that let us bring our own wine for no corking fee. My friends from Los Angeles were in town and I had a bottle of Uruguayan red wine on my desk at work. Even though it was a rainy Friday night, we braved SoHo and waited at the bar next door to be seated at Ivo & LuLu.

Listings say the menu is French Caribbean: the rabbit and boar saucissons are truly français except for the extra kick in the spice. The grilled avocado with spinach mousse was interesting but even more so with shiitake-sesame dressing. The rain outside just made it more comfortable inside this sliver of a space off the Holland Tunnel.

I came with four other people during my second visit. We ordered the entire menu–less than 15 dishes–and shared everything with two bottles of wine. The French owners ended up closing the restaurant while we were still inside. They served us desserts on the house and sat with us to smoke and chat.

We found out that the bar next door is now part of the restaurant during a more recent visit. Three of us shared five dishes with two bottles of wine: the duck confit which was crispy outside, yet soft inside. The mussels in an addicting spicy sauce. The potato gratin and the roasted pear with blue cheese. The winter squash, roasted and served in its shell–the mushiness of the meat with carrots and peas was very comforting. I’m not sure if they will take the wall that separates the two spaces down but I hope the coziness of the place won’t change. I also hope that the food will stay the same.

Turks & Frogs

323 West 11th Street between Greenwich and Washington Streets
212/691.8875
$86 for two, with two drinks, with tip

The salad portions shocked me the most at Turks & Frogs because they’re meant for two people even though the price is more familiar for one. Our waiter didn’t say anything when we ordered two salads and one main course so my only complaint is not being advised to order less.


The owner’s antique expertise showed in the lamps

It was a warm Thursday night and I thought of walking over to TriBeCa to see if we can score a seat at the Turkish restaurant set up by Osman Cakir, the same owner of the antique store of the same name in the West Village. It turns out his antique expertise is more useful when it comes to picking more than fifty bottles of wine from around the world and small Turkish specialties like lamb kebab, cucumber salad with yogurt and mint sauce and grilled swordfish.

Cantonese-Style Flounder

Adapted from Mr. Tang’s, Chinatown, New York

1 flounder, cleaned, rinsed, patted dry
1 ginger, julienned
4 stalks of scallions, sliced
1/2 cup sake
2 tbsps soy sauce
1 tbsp peanut oil
red chili flakes
salt and pepper

1. Preheat oven at 375º. Scatter half of the ginger and scallions in a baking dish large enough to accommodate the whole flounder. Place the flounder and top with the rest of the ginger and scallions. Add all the liquid and season with the chili flakes plus the salt and pepper.
2. Bake fish for about 20 minutes, adding a little water after 10 if the dish seems to be dry.

Flour-Crusted Soft-Shell Crabs

Adapted from Noodletown, Chinatown, New York

6 soft-shell crabs, rinsed under cold running water, apron and gills removed, patted dry
1 cup flour, sifted
2 tbsps paprika
vegetable oil
salt and pepper

1. On a plate, combine all ingredients except crabs and oil. Coat each crab with flour mixture, shake off excess and transfer to a plate.
2. In a heated deep skillet, add oil. Deep-fry crabs, turning over halfway through frying (watch out for popping) until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain crabs on paper towels and serve with tartar sauce.

Naka Naka

458 West 17th Street off Tenth Avenue
212/929.8544
about $400 for six plus room fee, with a few drinks, with tip
♥

When I get slow service in a restaurant, I’m usually ticked off, but for some reason I always excuse it when it comes to a Japanese restaurant. Do you do this? They’re so polite that even when they make a mistake, I find myself apologizing for them.

The menu at Naka Naka is limited; mostly familiar rolls like spicy tuna, salmon and tuna with avocado, unagi and tempura. The uni comes in both the light and the dark yellow colors and the hamachi is excellent, but without their daily specials–written on a whiteboard presented by the waitress–you’ll end up with less than five choices. Some of the appetizer dishes are tasty but unexciting: lotus root, deep fried fish, Japanese pickles and tofu. They also serve hot and cold soba and udon soups.

They didn’t replace our bowls throughout our entire meal. We awkwardly shared small dishes meant to be for one or two people because we didn’t have too many choices. It got so busy at the restaurant, we had to remind our waitress about our lotus root and fried fish orders. Getting refills for water and beer was difficult.

I’d return to Naka Naka if all I wanted was a simple Japanese experience around the neighborhood. In Meatpacking District standards, it’s a very small restaurant but still, an extra $10 per person was added to our bill for reserving the tatami room separated from the main dining bar. It’s a refuge from the zoo that is the party district, but that’s all there is to Naka Naka.