Ureña

37 East 28th Street between Park and Madison Avenues
212/213.2328
about $150 for two, with two drinks, without tip
♥ ♥
Update, 2007: Renovated as Pamplona

Ureña is the latest restaurant to open in Murray Hill from one of David Bouley’s apprentice and ex-executive chef of Blue Hill, Alex Ureña. The restaurant has been dubbed one of the ugliest by New York blogs when it opened, but it was obvious that they’ve listened to the critics by the time we visited. They’ve softened the lights to tone down the harshness of the yellow walls and swirl-patterned carpet. The bar is still by the door, but New York City real estate doesn’t come cheap and I can imagine that it will stay there.

Alex Ureña is Dominican and Ureña is billed under Spanish food, but I would categorize it under New American because the menu was a mishmash of different ingredients and cooking techniques. There’s a lot more fish in the menu than I expected, but there’s really nothing unheard of. I wanted to see more of the experimental side of the chef–the El Bulli techniques he’s learned from another mentor, Ferran Adrià.

I did enjoy the octopus and the arctic char with the sweetbreads. The beef ribs also melted like butter. The sauce was a good match to our Grenache. The reward came during dessert with one of Caryn Stabinsky’s creations, of Wylie Dufresne’s WD-50. I loved the beet panna cotta; it was in perfect harmony with the sour cream and orange salt.

Our waiter did not warm up to us until he saw that we loved our dessert. When we were seated, he asked us if we wanted tap or sparkling water. When the boy answered tap, he asked us what “chap” was. He may have left us perplexed, but I’m pretty sure Ureña will finally surprise us the next time we drop by.

Filipino Callos, Tripe Stew with Blood Sausage

To make callos, the main ingredient, honeycomb tripe, was easy to find in Chinatown but I was visiting store to store to find blood sausages. There was no way my version of callos was going to have Vienna sausages from a can. (Honeycomb tripe is the reticulum, the first compartment in the cattle’s stomach.) My trustworthy Spanish deli, Despaña, was closing for the day when I tried to buy them. The guy at the counter refused to sell them to me because the register closed five minutes before I got there. Talk about customer service. I ended up at Dean & Deluca but the packages on display were all expired. Dean & Deluca not carrying something I needed only meant one thing: I have to go to the Whole Foods at Union Square, the worst place to buy something like blood sausages. But I sucked it up and zigzagged my way through their awfully-designed space, past the beautiful people who don’t appreciate produce as much as they fawn over the buffet and of course, received the expected responses from the clerks behind the counter: what is that?, blood what? and I don’t think we carry those. A stranger overheard me and, bless his heart, tipped me off to a smaller store on Sixth Avenue between 11th and 12th Streets. It was called Jefferson Market and I hit the jackpot with their blood sausages and Spanish chorizos.

I spent a total of five hours roasting beef bones, simmering them and straining the juice into containers until I had proper beef stock. The next day, I scrubbed the fat off the honeycomb tripe and cleaned off a veal’s foot before I boiled them together. The day after that, I finally got to work.

Callos [kahl-yohs], or tripe in Spanish, is a famous dish from Madrid. Like other Spanish dishes, it comes with chorizo and tomatoes. Filipinos adapted the recipe, and after more than 350 years as a Spanish colony, we have made it our own.

Ingredients:
1 pound honeycomb tripe, washed throughly and excess fat trimmed
1 foot of veal, cut in 2-inch pieces, washed and rubbed with salt
2 chorizo de Bilbao, cut into thin slices
2 blood sausages, cut into small pieces
2 cups of beef broth
2 garlics, 1 minced, another whole
2 onions, 1 roughly chopped, another whole
peppercorns
1 bay leaf
2 tomatoes, diced
half a bag of baby carrots
4 small potatoes, peeled, quartered
1 can of chickpeas, drained
1 can of sweet peas, drained
1 red bell pepper, julienned
2 red chili peppers
3 sprigs of rosemary
lemon juice
salt, pepper, olive oil

1. Cook tripe and veal’s foot in a large pot and cover with water. Add whole garlic and onion, peppercorns and bay leaf. Bring to a boil; remove scum as it rises. Cover and simmer until tender, about 4 hours.
2. Transfer the cooked tripe to a plate and cool. Strain the stock and reserve 2 cups for later use. Cut the tripe into 1-inch strips. Discard veal’s foot.
3. In a large Dutch oven, heat the olive oil and sauté the garlic, onions, tomatoes and chili peppers until fragrant. Add the chorizo and brown. Increase heat to high and add the tripe. Add the blood sausages and some of the beef broth. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 20 minutes.
4. Uncover the stew and add the potatoes with the rosemary and peppercorns. Add the last of the broth to keep the stew from drying up. Add the rest of the vegetables and cook until tender. Season with salt and pepper. Squeeze some lemon juice before serving.

Related post/s:
Offal in Filipino cooking
Where to buy tripe, veal’s foot, blood sausages and Spanish chorizo

Roasted Chicken

Adapted from Anthony Bourdain’s Poulet Roti

Ingredients:
1 whole chicken, about 4 pounds, washed throughly and patted dry, excess fat removed, giblets reserved
half a lemon
1 medium onion, halved
1 sprig of thyme
1 sprig of rosemary
a handful of parsley, finely chopped
half a stick of butter, sliced
1 1/2 cups of white wine
salt and pepper

1. Preheat the oven 375º. Season the inside cavity of the chicken with salt and pepper. Put the lemon, half of the onion, thyme and rosemary inside. Truss the chicken with twine, “knees up, ass out.” (Check out the Les Halles Cookbook for a really good explanation.) Insert a slice of butter underneath the skin so that a few lumps sit on the bird’s breastbone. Season the outside with salt and pepper. (Try not to rip the skin.)
2. On a roasting pan, put the giblets with the other half of the onion and 1 cup of the wine. Place the chicken on a rack and on the pan. Roast for 30 minutes while basting often.
3. After 30 minutes, turn up the heat to 450º and cook for another 25 minutes. Poke the fat part of the thigh to see if the liquid that runs out is clear which means your bird is cooked. Remove the chicken from the oven and allow to rest on a chopping board for 15 minutes before carving.
4. Meanwhile, place the pan on the stove over high heat. Stir in remaining white wine and scrape the bottom to collect the fond. Bring the wine to a boil and cook until it is reduced by half. Discard the giblets and the onion and whisk in remaining butter. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper. Serve with chicken slices.

Dolmades, Stuffed Grape Leaves

Adapted from Snack

Ingredients:
1 jar of grape leaves, rinsed and patted dry
cooked rice
ground lamb
pine nuts, toasted
a small box of raisins, roughly chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
a handful of parsley, roughly chopped
a pinch of dill
juice from 1 lemon and another lemon in wedges
3 cups of chicken broth
salt and pepper and olive oil

1. Sauté onions in olive oil. Cook lamb until lightly browned. Add rice with half the lemon juice. Add dill, mint, parsley, raisins and pine nuts.
2. Place a spoonful of the rice mixture on the dull side folding in sides and rolling up leaves like a joint. (That’s easy.)
3. Put in a baking pan, open end down. Cover with remaining oil, lemon juice and enough broth to cover at least halfway through. Cover with aluminum foil and place in oven at 375º for about 40 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges.

A Salt and Battery

80 Second Avenue between 4th and 5th Streets
212/254.6610
about $20 for two, with drinks, with tip

I either order cod or haddock when I stop by. I soak them in vinegar and brown sauce. Everything goes down easily with Boddingtons. Mushy peas, baked beans and pickled onions are also on the menu if the chips are not enough for you. I could barely understand the cockney slang of the guys behind the counter but all I know is that the fish and chips at A Salt and Battery are as good as they get outside of the U.K.